How do I size my bracelet ?
- If your watch comes with a bracelet, there are removable links in it, and the clasp has either a ratcheting expansion feature, or some micro-adjustment holes to provide a comfortable fit.
- Removable Links with Solid Screw Bars
- The removable links in our bracelets are held in place with solid screw-bars.
- Be sure to use the correct size screw driver when removing the screw-bars, and don't force them. Using a screwdriver which is too small for the screw heads can strip them, making removal impossible, and requiring them to be drilled out. Stripped screw heads are not covered under warranty.
- We recommend using a small bit of mild thread locker or clear nail polish on the screw-bar threads, to prevent the screw-bars from coming loose. Lost screw-bars and resultant damage to a watch are not covered under warranty.
- Clasp Adjustments
- If your clasp does not have an ratcheting expansion function, there will be additional end-link mounting holes on the sides of the clasp. These micro-adjustment holes enable smaller sizing adjustments than the removable links. The end-links can be moved to the other holes by compressing the ends of the spring-bars holding the end-links in place.
- If All Else Fails
- If you require assistance sizing your bracelet, most jewelers and any watchmaker can size a bracelet quickly and inexpensively.
Tell me more about automatic winding ?
- Automatic movements wind themselves, using a weighted rotor which turns as you swing your arm. If you are physically active while wearing your watch, automatic winding can keep it near full power, and performing at its best. Unlike hand-wind-only movements, a clutch mechanism in the movement prevents automatic movements from being over-wound.
- Most automatic movements are bi-directional winders, wound by the rotor turning in either direction. The Miyota 9015 is uni-directional winding, with the winding rotation being clockwise.
- You may sometimes hear or feel the rotor quickly spinning in the opposite direction. Most automatics will take more than 1000 full rotations of the rotor to reach full power, so it may be necessary to also hand-wind your watch to keep it performing at its best.
Tell me more about hand winding and crown operation
- Most movements can also be hand-wound using the crown, adding power to keep a watch running, and maintain accuracy, which will typically decrease as a watch winds down.
- Hand-winding can be more efficient than automatic winding. The rotor will need over 1000 rotations for the watch to reach full power, but the crown will need much fewer rotations:
- Seiko cal. series NH3x - Full power at 55 full rotations
- Miyota cal. series 90xx - Full power at 40 full rotations
- STP series STP1-xx - Full power at 25 full rotations
- When hand-winding, do not rotate the crown back and forth, in both directions. Wind the mainspring by turning the crown clockwise only. You may begin to hear a clicking sound when the mainspring is fully wound.
- The crown can be either push-pull, or screw-down. Screw-down crowns are spring-loaded, and will pop out when the threads inside the crown clear the threads on the case tube
- Always make sure your crown is all the way in while storing or wearing your watch. If it's the screw-down type, make sure it's screwed down. Do not force your crown in or out, and be careful while screwing it down, so it does not become cross-threaded or over-tightened.
- Some crowns may need a bit of lateral pressure while being pushed in, to engage different positions.
- Most modern automatic movements are "hacking", which means the seconds hand will stop when the crown is in time-setting position.
- Crowns on some newer watches may require a bit of use or break-in for lubricants inside the movement to be evenly distributed. While changing positions, you may find the crown slipping into a neutral, "free-wheeling" position where it does nothing. This should self-correct in a short amount of time, through continued use. Please contact us or one of our authorized distributors if it does not.
What is the proper date setting procedures?
- If your watch displays the date, it should automatically change around midnight.
- But if your watch has stopped, manually setting the date between 9pm and 4am can damage the date-change mechanism. If your watch has stopped, the time displayed could be am, or pm.
- To avoid causing damage, first advance the hours until you see the date change near 12am, then set the watch to the correct time, then set the watch to the correct date, so long as the current time is not between 9pm and 4am.
- The date will usually be advanced by turning the crown clockwise, however, with the Seiko NH35, the date is advanced by turning the crown counter-clockwise.
What type of routine maintenance is necessary?
- The movement in your watch should run reliably and accurately for years, but may require periodic maintenance.
- Swiss mechanical movements should receive routine servicing or replacement no less frequently than 7 years. Japanese mechanical movements may need some lubrication to the rotor if it becomes loud, but should otherwise not need maintenance for at least a decade.
- Contact us and we will do it professionally in our service center
Tell me more about accuarcy
- Mechanical movements are not typically as accurate as battery-powered quartz movements. Their accuracy can be affected by position, the power in the mainspring, and environmental conditions such as temperature.
- Prior to shipping, all of our watches are adjusted to make sure they are running within the movement manufacturers' stated specs for accuracy. If you find your watch is not running accurately on delivery, please contact us.
- The accuracy specs provided by the movement manufacturers are the average daily ratesof the multiple positions in which they're tested, and when tested at full power:
- STP1-11 - Average daily rate of +/- 15 seconds/day, tested at full power (25 complete crown rotations, or 50 half-turns), measured in 5 positions of dial up, dial down, crown up, crown down, and 6 up, with up to 15 seconds/day of variance between positions, and up to +/- 20 s/d difference due to isochronism (loss of accuracy at less than 1/2 of full power).
- Miyota 9015 - Average daily rate of -10 to +30 seconds/day, tested between 10 and 60 minutes of full power (40 complete crown rotations, or 80 half-turns), measured in 4 positions of dial up, 6 up, crown up, and crown down, with up to 40 seconds/day of posture difference, and 20-40 seconds/day difference due to isochromism (loss of accuracy at less than 1/2 of full power).
- Seiko NH35 - Average of -25 to +35 seconds/day, tested between 10 and 60 minutes of full power (55 complete crown rotations, or 110 half-turns), measured in 3 positions of dial up, 6 up, and crown down, with up to 60 seconds/day of posture difference (12 up, 6 up, 9 up, 3 up), and 20-40 seconds/day difference due to isochromism (loss of accuracy at less than 1/2 of full power).
- You may experience better or worse performance on the wrist, or over a 24 hour period, based on activity, ambient temperature, and power in the mainspring.
- Your watch will become less accurate as it winds down, and may not run within spec at less than 1/2 of its full power reserve.
- If a watch is dropped or suffered a hard impact, it may affect the balance, causing it to run fast or slow, and require adjustment by a watchmaker, which is not covered under warranty.
- If you find your watch is running extremely fast, gaining minutes per day, its movement has most likely become magnetized. Magnetic fields are very common, and your watch can become magnetized easily due to proximity to computers, speakers, and mobile devices. Your watch may even have been magnetized during shipping.
- Demagnetization is something which can be done quickly and inexpensively by any watchmaker, or using inexpensive degausser (demagnetization) machines available online, or by setting your watch on the anti-theft device pads located at many stores' checkouts. Demagnetization of your watch is not covered under warranty.